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Re-Attaching Parts...

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Re-Attaching Parts...

Postby Noideaforaname » Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:41 pm

I don't normally mod my TFs unless something is really bugging me, in this case, Movie Blackout's tail. It interferes with posing. Despite being removable, it was connected to his iconic helicopter blade 'cape.' As you may have guessed, I decided lopping it off was a good idea. Like so:
Image
What an improvement! That tail could seriously have been it's own bot.
....however, the tail can't reattach for helicopter mode -- I had confused the holes that the cage connects to for connecting to Blackout's legs. Oops.

I'd like to re-attach the tail for copter mode, but not permanently (i.e. I don't want to just glue it back on). What's an easy way to do so? The tail and the part it was connected to are now hollow (they had a number of plastic gears inside), roughly 6mm by 17mm.
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Re: Re-Attaching Parts...

Postby Geminii » Mon Aug 30, 2010 9:17 pm

Motto: "Ideas may hide in plain sight."
Weapon: Twin Turretted 8MM Electro-Static Cannons
Magnets? Or do you just want a square post/hole arrangement?
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Re: Re-Attaching Parts...

Postby Noideaforaname » Thu Sep 02, 2010 9:39 am

I'd like to go with a peg/hole fix.
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Re: Re-Attaching Parts...

Postby Geminii » Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:42 pm

Motto: "Ideas may hide in plain sight."
Weapon: Twin Turretted 8MM Electro-Static Cannons
Well, depending on how deep the holes in each piece are, you could get a 6x17mm strip of rigid plastic, cut it to length so it fits in both the holes when everything's assembled in helicopter mode, and then glue it permanently into one or the other side. Lego parts might be about the right size.

It'd only slide in, not click in - if you wanted click-in, click-out connectability then you could use some flexible plastic strips in the hole with slight bumps on them, and have corresponding slight notches in the strip which sticks out.

If you don't want to construct all that from scratch, you could use a plastic RJ45 plug (found on the end of dead network cables everywhere) and corresponding socket, and carve down the non-ratcheting side until it fits into 6mm. A phone plug and socket would work well, too.

Other options: almost anything from a Lego Technic set. A Bush For Cross Axle (http://shop.lego.com/Product/Factory/PickABrick/PickABrick.aspx?cn=26) and any Cross Axle piece, or even a pair of them side by side, would provide a strongly-gripped (non-clicking) connection. You could then fill the rest of the holes in the parts with epoxy, which would hold everything in place.
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